Unlock the secrets of mastering a flawless hem! Whether you’re a seasoned seamstress or a novice with a needle and thread, this comprehensive guide will empower you to achieve professional-looking results. Say goodbye to uneven or bulky hems and embrace perfectly finished skirts that exude both style and elegance.
Before embarking on your hemming journey, it’s essential to gather the necessary tools. A sharp pair of scissors, a sewing machine (or a trusty needle and thread), and an iron will form the backbone of your hemming arsenal. Additionally, a measuring tape, a seam ripper, and a hem gauge or ruler will serve as invaluable aids in ensuring precision and consistency. Taking the time to prepare your workspace and tools will lay the groundwork for a successful hemming experience.
Embarking on the actual hemming process, the first step involves precisely measuring and marking the desired hem length. Whether you prefer a modest hemline or a daringly shorter length, accuracy is paramount. Fold the hem up to the desired height and secure it with pins or basting stitches. This temporary hold will prevent the fabric from shifting as you sew the hem in place. Once the hem is securely pinned or basted, you can confidently proceed to the next step – the actual sewing. Using a sewing machine or hand-stitching techniques, carefully sew the hem, ensuring even and secure stitches. Remember, patience and meticulousness are key to achieving a flawless finish.
After the hem is sewn, the final touch awaits – pressing. This crucial step not only sets the stitches and removes any wrinkles but also elevates the overall appearance of your hem. Use a hot iron and a pressing cloth to gently press the hem, taking care not to scorch the fabric. Once the hem has cooled, your skirt will be transformed, adorned with a professional-looking hem that will withstand the test of time. Embrace the satisfaction of mastering this essential sewing skill and enjoy the compliments that are sure to follow!
Measuring the Hemline
Before you start measuring your skirt, it’s important to decide how long you want it to be. This will depend on your personal preference, the style of the skirt, and the occasion you’re wearing it for. Once you’ve decided on the length, you can start measuring your hemline.
To get a more precise measurement, it’s best to wear the skirt and have someone else help you measure. However, you can also do it yourself if you don’t have anyone to help you. Here are step-by-step instructions by both methods:
With Help From Another Person
- Put on the skirt and stand in front of a full-length mirror.
- Have your helper measure from the bottom of the waistband to the desired hemline.
- Mark the hemline with a pin or tailor’s chalk.
- Remove the skirt and lay it flat on a table.
- Measure the distance from the bottom of the waistband to the mark you made on the hemline.
- This is your hemline measurement.
Measuring the Hemline Yourself
- Put on the skirt and stand in front of a long mirror.
- Measure from the bottom of the waistband to the desired hemline.
- Mark the hemline with a pin or tailor’s chalk.
- Fold the skirt in half lengthwise, matching the side seams.
- Lay the skirt flat on a table, making sure that the fold is aligned with the edge of the table.
- Measure the distance from the bottom of the waistband to the mark you made on the hemline.
- This is your hemline measurement.
Now that you have your hemline measurement, you can start sewing the hem.
Marking the Hemline
Accurately marking the hemline is crucial for achieving a professional-looking finish. Follow these steps to ensure precision:
1. Determine the Desired Length
Put on the skirt and stand before a full-length mirror to determine the desired length. Pin the hem up to mark the new length, taking into account the following factors:
- Your height and body shape
- The style of the skirt
- The occasion you’ll be wearing it for
2. Level the Skirt
To ensure an even hemline, it’s essential to level the skirt around your body. Use a spirit level or measuring tape to check that the skirt is hanging evenly all around. Adjust the pinned-up hem accordingly.
Here’s a helpful table to guide you:
| Measuring Tool | Instructions |
|---|---|
| Spirit Level | Place the spirit level on the hemline at various points around the skirt. If the bubble is not centered, adjust the pins until it is. |
| Measuring Tape | Measure the distance from the floor to the hemline at several points around the skirt. Adjust the pins until all measurements are equal. |
Folding and Pressing the Hem
1. Determine the Hem Length
Decide on the desired length of the skirt hem. Measure from the natural waistline to where you want the hem to fall. Add an extra 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) for a double-folded hem.
2. Fold and Pin the Hem
Fold the excess fabric up to the desired hem length, right sides together. Pin the fold in place along the raw edge. Use small, sharp pins perpendicular to the fabric.
3. Press the Hem
Press the folded hem using a hot iron with steam. This will set the crease and help the fabric hold its shape. Follow these steps for optimal pressing:
a. Dampen the Hem
Lightly dampen the folded hem with a spray bottle filled with water. This will help create a smooth and wrinkle-free finish.
b. Use a Pressing Cloth
Place a pressing cloth or a piece of clean, thin fabric over the hem before pressing. This will protect the fabric from direct heat and prevent scorching.
c. Press in Sections
Press the hem in small sections, about 6 inches (15 cm) at a time. Start from one end and work your way to the other.
d. Apply Pressure
Apply firm pressure to the iron while pressing. Hold the iron still for a few seconds in each section to allow the heat to penetrate the fabric.
e. Repeat if Necessary
Repeat steps a-d until the entire hem is pressed and set.
| Iron Setting | Fabric Type |
|---|---|
| High Heat | Cotton, linen |
| Medium Heat | Silk, wool |
| Low Heat | Synthetic fabrics |
Pinning the Hem
Step 1: Mark the new hemline
Put on the skirt and stand in front of a mirror. Mark the desired length with pins. Use a ruler or measuring tape for accuracy.
Step 2: Fold up the hem allowance
Turn up the fabric along the marked line to the desired hem width (e.g., 1 inch). Press with an iron to create a crisp crease.
Step 3: Pin across the hem
With the hemline folded up, start pinning from one end to the other. Place the pins perpendicular to the hem, spacing them evenly (e.g., every 2-3 inches).
Step 4: Pin along the hem allowance and the main fabric
Continue pinning by inserting the pin through both the hem allowance and the main fabric below it. Make sure the pins are parallel to the hemline and go through all layers of fabric.
Here’s a detailed table to guide your pinning:
| Action | Description |
|---|---|
| Fold up the hem allowance | Turn up the fabric to the desired hem width and press. |
| Pin across the hem | Place pins perpendicular to the hem, spacing them evenly. |
| Insert pins through hem allowance and main fabric | Insert the pin through both the folded hem allowance and the main fabric beneath it. |
Step 5: Remove the original hem
Once all the pins are in place, remove the original hemline stitching. Use a seam ripper or sharp scissors to carefully cut the threads.
Sewing the Hem
With a suitable hemline marked on the skirt, follow these steps to sew a durable and professional-looking hem:
- Prepare the hemline by folding the fabric up twice, each fold being the desired width of the hem. Pin the hem in place.
- Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and select a thread color that matches the fabric.
- Start sewing the hem, approximately 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Use a small stitch length for a secure hold.
- Sew around the entire circumference of the skirt, taking extra care at curves and corners.
- To enhance the hem’s longevity and prevent fraying, topstitch the hem close to the edge of the folded fabric. This additional stitching will add strength and a polished finish.
Tips for Sewing the Hem
Here are some helpful tips for achieving the perfect hem:
| Tips for Sewing the Hem |
|---|
|
Finishing the Seam
Once you have sewn the hem, it is important to finish the seam to prevent it from fraying or becoming undone. There are a few different ways to do this, depending on the type of fabric and the look you are going for.
1. Pinking Shears
Pinking shears cut a zigzag pattern into the edge of the fabric, which helps to prevent fraying. This is a good option for lightweight fabrics that are not likely to ravel, such as chiffon or silk.
2. Serger
A serger is a sewing machine that overcasts the edge of the fabric, creating a durable and professional-looking finish. This is a good option for medium-weight to heavyweight fabrics that are likely to ravel, such as cotton or denim.
3. Rolled Hem
A rolled hem is a decorative finish that creates a small, rolled edge on the fabric. This is a good option for lightweight fabrics that have a delicate look, such as lace or organza.
4. Blind Hem
A blind hem is a nearly invisible finish that is sewn by hand. This is a good option for any type of fabric that you want to have a clean and finished look.
5. Hong Kong Finish
A Hong Kong finish is a strong and durable finish that is often used on tailored garments. This finish involves sewing a strip of bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric and then topstitching it in place.
6. Other Options
In addition to the methods listed above, there are a few other ways to finish a seam, including:
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| Liquid seam sealant | A liquid seam sealant is a clear adhesive that can be applied to the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying. |
| Seam tape | Seam tape is a self-adhesive tape that can be applied to the edge of the fabric to reinforce it and prevent fraying. |
| Iron-on fusible web | Iron-on fusible web is a thin, adhesive material that can be ironed onto the edge of the fabric to fuse it together and prevent fraying. |
Pressing the Hemmed Skirt
Once the hem is sewn in place, it’s important to press it to give it a professional finish. Here are the steps to follow:
1. Turn the Skirt Right Side Out
Bring the skirt back to its right side, making sure the hem is facing down.
2. Fold the Hem Up
Fold the hem up to the desired height, making sure it’s aligned evenly.
3. Press the First Fold
Using a steam iron, press the hem fold to create a sharp crease.
4. Fold and Press the Second Fold
Fold the hem up again, this time over the pressed crease. Press again to create another sharp crease.
5. Measure and Mark the Blind Stitch Margin
Fold the hem down to the desired height for the blind stitch. Measure and mark a line parallel to the hem, about 1/4″ away from the edge.
6. Blind Stitch the Hem
Blind stitch the hem along the marked line using a blind stitch needle or machine attachment.
7. Press the Hemmed Skirt Thoroughly
Once the blind stitch is complete, press the hemmed skirt thoroughly to set the stitch and give it a polished look. Here are some additional tips for optimal pressing:
| Tips |
|---|
| Use a steam iron to help set the fabric and remove wrinkles. |
| Place a damp cloth or pressing cloth over the hem before pressing to prevent scorching. |
| Press on a flat surface to ensure an even finish. |
| Hold the iron steady for a few seconds in each spot to allow the heat to penetrate. |
How to Hem a Skirt
| Materials: |
|---|
| Skirt |
| Measuring tape or ruler |
| Fabric scissors |
| Needle and thread (or sewing machine) |
| Iron and ironing board |
Troubleshooting Hemming Issues
1. The hem is uneven
This can be caused by several factors, such as:
– Uneven measurement or marking
– Inaccurate cutting
– Stretching the fabric while sewing
– Ironing the seam in one direction only
2. The hem is too wide or too narrow
This is usually caused by inaccurate measurement or marking. Measure the hem carefully and make sure to sew the seam at the desired width.
3. The hem is puckered or wavy
This is usually caused by:
– Too much tension on the thread
– Sewing the seam too quickly
– Not pressing the seam after sewing
4. The hem is coming undone
This is usually caused by:
– Loose or uneven stitches
– Poor-quality thread
– Not backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam
5. The hem is too stiff
This is usually caused by pressing the seam with too much heat or pressure. Press the seam gently and avoid pressing directly on the stitches.
6. The hem is too loose
This is usually caused by not sewing the seam close enough to the edge of the fabric. Sew the seam as close to the edge as possible without catching the fabric in the stitches.
7. The hem is fraying
This is usually caused by using a fabric that is prone to fraying. To prevent fraying, use a fabric that is tightly woven or finish the edge of the fabric with a serger or zigzag stitch.
8. The hem is not straight
This can be caused by:
– Inaccurate measurement or marking
– Sewing the seam off-center
– Stretching the fabric while sewing
– Not pressing the seam after sewing
– Not using a seam guide or ruler
Hemming Different Types of Skirts
Hemming Pencil Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches.Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming A-Line Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Pleated Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Maxi Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Circle Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Mermaid Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Tulip Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming High-Low Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Hemming Asymmetrical Skirt
Unzip the skirt and lay it flat. Measure the hem from the bottom of the skirt or from your desired length. Mark the hem allowance at 1.5 to 2 inches. Fold the hem allowance up twice, pressing each fold into place. Pin the hem in place and stitch it down along the folded edge using a blind stitch.
Tips for a Professional Hem
Hemming a skirt requires precision and care to achieve a professional finish. Here are some tips to help you get the best results:
1. Measure and Mark the Hem
Use a measuring tape and chalk or fabric pen to mark the desired hem length evenly around the skirt. Use a ruler or straight edge to ensure a straight line across each side.
2. Fold and Iron the Edge
Fold the edge of the skirt up to the marked line and iron it in place to create a crisp edge.
3. Pin the Hem
Pin the hem in place along the ironed edge, ensuring the pins are perpendicular to the fabric and evenly spaced.
4. Hand-Basted the Hem
Using a needle and thread, hand-baste the hem in place with small, even stitches. This will hold the hem securely before sewing.
5. Sew the Hem
Use a needle and thread that match the color of the skirt and sew the hem in place using a small, blind stitch. Start and end your stitching on the inside of the skirt for a seamless look.
6. Press the Hem
Once the hem is sewn, iron it in place to set the stitches and give it a crisp finish.
7. Trim the Excess Thread
Carefully trim any excess thread close to the fabric to remove any loose or visible ends.
8. Reinforce the Hem (Optional)
For a more durable hem, you can reinforce it with a line of topstitching or by using a fusible hem tape.
9. Finish the Inside
Fold the raw edge of the hem allowance inside and pin it in place. Hand-stitch or serge the edge to prevent fraying.
10. Hemming Different Skirt Styles
Different skirt styles may require specific hemming techniques to ensure a professional finish. Here’s a table summarizing some common skirt styles and their recommended hemming methods:
| Skirt Style | Hemming Method |
|---|---|
| Pencil Skirt | Blind stitch hem with a narrow hem allowance |
| A-Line Skirt | Blind stitch hem with a slightly wider hem allowance |
| Pleated Skirt | Invisible stitch hem with a narrow hem allowance |
| Maxi Skirt | Blind stitch hem with a wider hem allowance, optionally finished with a ruffle or trim |
| Circle Skirt | Hem with a gathered or rolled edge, blind stitched in place |
How to Hem a Skirt
Hemming a skirt is a relatively simple task that can be completed in a few hours. With a few basic tools and materials, you can hem your skirt to the perfect length. Here are the steps on how to hem a skirt:
- Gather your materials. You will need a sewing machine, thread, a measuring tape, a pair of scissors, and a hem gauge or ruler.
- Measure the desired length of the skirt. To do this, put on the skirt and stand in front of a mirror. Mark the desired length with a pin or chalk.
- Remove the skirt and lay it flat on a table. Fold up the hem to the desired length and press it with an iron.
- Sew the hem. Start sewing at one side of the skirt and sew all the way around, using a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch.
- Press the hem again to set the stitches.
People Also Ask
How much does it cost to hem a skirt?
The cost of hemming a skirt will vary depending on the type of skirt, the fabric, and the complexity of the hem. Generally, you can expect to pay between $10 and $30 for a basic hem.
Can I hem a skirt by hand?
Yes, you can hem a skirt by hand using a needle and thread. However, it is more time-consuming than using a sewing machine.
What is the best stitch to use for hemming a skirt?
The best stitch to use for hemming a skirt is a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch. A straight stitch is more durable, while a zigzag stitch is more stretchy.
