Are you the proud owner of a 2005 Electra Glide? If so, you know that this motorcycle is a classic. However, even the most well-maintained motorcycles will need new brakes eventually. If you’re not comfortable working on your own motorcycle, you can always take it to a mechanic. However, if you’re up for the challenge, installing new brakes on your Electra Glide is a relatively straightforward process. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get the job done.
Before you begin, you’ll need to gather a few tools. You’ll need a socket wrench, a torque wrench, a brake caliper spreader, and a new set of brake pads. Once you have your tools, you can begin by removing the old brake pads. To do this, simply use the socket wrench to remove the bolts that hold the calipers in place. Then, use the brake caliper spreader to spread the calipers apart and remove the old brake pads. Next, you’ll need to clean the calipers and rotors with brake cleaner. This will help to ensure that the new brake pads make good contact with the rotors. Finally, you can install the new brake pads and tighten the bolts that hold the calipers in place. Be sure to torque the bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Once you’ve installed the new brake pads, you’ll need to bleed the brakes. This is a process of removing air from the brake lines. To bleed the brakes, you’ll need to open the bleeder valve on each caliper and allow the fluid to flow out. Once the fluid is free of air, you can close the bleeder valves and top off the brake fluid reservoir. Now, your new brakes are installed and bled. You can test the brakes by riding the motorcycle and applying the brakes. If the brakes feel spongy or soft, you may need to bleed the brakes again.
Gathering Necessary Tools and Materials
Essential Tools
1. **Bleeding funnel kit:** This kit includes a funnel, hose, and caliper adapter for bleeding the brake system.
2. **Brake caliper spreader:** Used to compress the caliper pistons to remove the brake pads.
3. **10mm socket and wrench:** For removing the caliper mounting bolts.
4. **13mm socket and wrench:** For removing the master cylinder banjo bolt.
5. **DOT 4 brake fluid:** For refilling the brake system after bleeding.
6. **Brake parts cleaner:** For cleaning brake components before reassembly.
7. **Rags or paper towels:** For wiping up spills and cleaning parts.
Additional Tools (Optional)
1. **Impact driver:** Can be used to quickly loosen stubborn bolts.
2. **Torque wrench:** Ensures proper torque is applied when tightening bolts.
3. **Brake pad spreader:** An alternative to a caliper spreader for pushing back caliper pistons.
4. **Ratchet strap:** Can be used to compress the brake lever while bleeding the system.
Materials
Part | Quantity |
---|---|
Brake pads | 2 |
Brake rotors | 2 (if replacing) |
Caliper O-rings | 4 |
Brake fluid | As needed |
Removing the Front Wheel
1. Remove the axle nut using a 1 1/8-inch socket. Note the axle nut is not left-hand threaded.
2. Loosen the caliper bolts using an 8mm Allen wrench.
– Remove the caliper bolts completely and carefully lift the caliper enough to slip the brake pads out of the caliper. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake line.
– Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire.
– Remove the axle and set the wheel aside.
Disassembling the Front Caliper
Step 1: Remove the Caliper
Locate the caliper mounting bolts on the back of the caliper. These bolts typically require a hex wrench or socket to remove. Once the bolts are loosened, gently pull the caliper away from the rotor. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose.
Step 2: Remove the Brake Pads
The brake pads are held in place by pins or clips. Use a small screwdriver or punch to remove the pins or clips. Once the pins or clips are removed, the brake pads can be pulled out of the caliper.
Step 3: Inspect the Caliper
With the brake pads removed, you can now inspect the caliper for wear or damage. Check the caliper piston for any pitting or corrosion. Also, check the caliper bore for any scoring or damage. If any wear or damage is found, the caliper may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Additional tips for inspecting brake calipers:
1. Look for any cracks or leaks in the caliper housing.
2. Check the caliper piston for any signs of wear or damage.
3. Inspect the caliper bore for any scoring or pitting.
4. Check the brake pads for any signs of wear or contamination.
Symptom | Possible Cause |
---|---|
Brake pedal feels spongy | Air in the brake lines |
Brakes squeal or grind | Worn brake pads |
Brake fluid leaking | Damaged caliper |
Replacing the Brake Pads
Before you begin, gather the following tools and materials:
- New brake pads
- Brake cleaner
- C-clamp
- Socket wrench
- Torque wrench
- Anti-seize compound
Follow these steps to replace the brake pads:
- Remove the caliper bolts. Use a socket wrench to loosen the bolts that hold the caliper in place. Do not remove the bolts completely.
- Lift the caliper off the rotor. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a C-clamp.
- Remove the old brake pads. Use a screwdriver or pry bar to remove the old brake pads from the caliper.
- Clean the caliper and rotor. Use brake cleaner to clean the caliper and rotor. This will remove any dirt or debris that could interfere with the new brake pads.
- Apply anti-seize compound. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the back of the new brake pads. This will help prevent them from squealing and seizing.
- Install the new brake pads. Place the new brake pads in the caliper and align them with the rotor.
- Reinstall the caliper. Carefully lower the caliper over the rotor and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
- Repeat the process for the other caliper.
- Pump the brake pedal. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the new brake pads.
- Check the brake fluid level. Add brake fluid if necessary.
Reassembling the Front Caliper
With the caliper pistons fully retracted, carefully position the new pads into the caliper. Ensure they are correctly aligned and seated properly. Apply a small amount of brake grease to the caliper piston faces and the back of the brake pads where they contact the caliper bracket.
Carefully turn the caliper upright and slide it back onto the rotor. The caliper bolts should now align with the mounting holes on the caliper bracket. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Reconnect the brake caliper fluid line to the caliper and tighten the banjo bolt to the specified torque using a new crush washer. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid and bleed the brakes to remove any air from the system.
Part | Quantity | Tightening Torque |
---|---|---|
Caliper Mounting Bolts | 2 | 60-70 ft-lbs |
Brake Line Banjo Bolt | 1 | 20-25 ft-lbs |
After bleeding the brakes, check for any leaks and ensure the brake lever feels firm and responsive. Double-check all bolts and fittings for proper tightness and perform a test ride to verify the brakes are functioning correctly.
Bleeding the Front Brake System
Bleeding the front brake system is essential to ensure optimal braking performance. Here’s how to bleed it effectively:
1. Gather Your Tools
You’ll need a 10mm wrench, a 6mm socket, clear brake fluid, a catch vessel, and a clean rag.
2. Remove the Caliper Bolt
Locate the caliper bolt on the front brake caliper and remove it using the 10mm wrench. Carefully remove the caliper from the rotor.
3. Open the Bleeder Screw
Using the 6mm socket, open the bleeder screw on the bottom of the caliper. Hold the catch vessel below the screw to collect any fluid that escapes.
4. Pump the Brake Pedal
With the bleeder screw open, slowly pump the brake pedal several times. Observe the fluid flowing out of the bleeder screw. Continue pumping until the fluid is clear and free of air bubbles.
5. Close the Bleeder Screw
Once you see clean fluid, immediately tighten the bleeder screw using the 6mm socket. Do not overtighten to prevent damage.
6. Reinstall the Caliper
Carefully align the caliper with the rotor and tighten the caliper bolt using the 10mm wrench. Ensure that the torque is within the manufacturer’s specifications (typically around 30-40 ft-lb).
Step | Action | Details |
---|---|---|
6.1 | Tightening the Caliper Bolt | Use a torque wrench to ensure the proper torque is applied. |
6.2 | Checking Caliper Alignment | Confirm that the caliper is properly centered over the rotor. |
6.3 | Lubricating the Bolt | Apply a small amount of anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the caliper bolt before tightening. |
7. Repeat for the Other Caliper
Repeat the process on the other front brake caliper to ensure both calipers are bled properly.
Removing the Rear Wheel
1. Remove the Saddlebags and Muffler
Disconnect any electrical connectors attached to the saddlebags. Remove the mounting bolts and lift off the bags. Unfasten the mounting bolts and detach the muffler from the exhaust system.
2. Loosen the Axle Nut
Locate the axle nut at the rear wheel’s center. Using a wrench, carefully loosen the nut, but do not remove it completely.
3. Remove the Rear Brake Caliper
Locate the rear brake caliper on the left side of the wheel. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and gently lift the caliper away from the rotor. Secure the caliper to the frame with a bungee cord to prevent it from hanging.
4. Remove the Axle
Insert a drift pin or punch into the hole on the right side of the wheel’s axle. Gently tap the drift pin with a hammer to push the axle out of the wheel. The wheel should now be separated from the bike.
5. Remove the Wheel
Grip the wheel firmly and gently pull it toward you to remove it from the motorcycle.
6. Inspect and Prepare the New Brakes
Inspect the new brake pads and rotors for any damage. If necessary, clean the new brake pads with brake cleaner.
7. Reinstall the Wheel and Axle
Align the wheel and slide it back onto the axle. Ensure the brake rotor is properly positioned within the caliper. Thread the axle through the wheel and the frame’s alignment holes. Tap the axle securely into place using a drift pin and hammer.
Torque Specifications | Component | Torque (ft-lbs) |
---|---|---|
Axle Nut | 110-130 | |
Rear Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts | 85-105 |
Disassembling the Rear Caliper
8. Removing the Piston
Now, it’s time to remove the piston. But since the piston is lodged deeply within the caliper, you’ll need to apply external force to extract it. However, be cautious not to damage the piston in the process.
There are two main methods to remove the piston:
- Compressed air: Using compressed air is the safest method. Simply attach an air hose to the brake line fitting and gently apply air pressure. The piston should pop out easily.
- C-clamp method: If compressed air is not available, you can use a C-clamp. Place a pair of brake pads on either side of the piston and secure them with the C-clamp. Tighten the clamp slowly and evenly to gradually push the piston out.
Tips for removing the piston:
Tip | Reason |
---|---|
Wipe the piston with a clean cloth before reinserting. | To remove any dirt or debris that could damage the caliper. |
Lubricate the piston with brake fluid before inserting. | To ensure smooth operation and prevent corrosion. |
Avoid using pliers or sharp objects to grip the piston. | Such tools can damage the piston’s surface. |
Replacing the Rear Brake Pads
9. Reattach the Caliper
Place the caliper back over the rotor, aligning the mounting holes. Insert the bolts and tighten them evenly using a torque wrench. Refer to your motorcycle’s service manual for the specified torque values. Ensure the caliper is securely fastened.
9.1. Checking Brake Pad Clearance
Before tightening the bolts completely, insert a feeler gauge between the brake pad and the rotor. The clearance should be between 0.015 and 0.025 inches (0.38 to 0.63 mm). If the clearance is too small, the pads will drag on the rotor, causing premature wear and overheating. If the clearance is too large, the pads will not engage properly, reducing braking efficiency.
9.2. Adjusting Brake Pad Clearance
Clearance Too Small | Clearance Too Large |
---|---|
Use a pry bar or C-clamp to spread the caliper slightly. |
Use a hammer and punch to drive the brake pad alignment pins inward. |
Repeat steps 9.1 and 9.2 until the desired clearance is achieved. Then, tighten the caliper bolts fully.
Reassembling the Rear Caliper
1. Lubricate the caliper pistons with brake caliper grease.
2. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
3. Install the brake caliper on the brake disc.
4. Tighten the caliper bolts to the specified torque.
5. Install the brake caliper bracket.
6. Tighten the brake caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque.
Bleeding the System
1. Remove the bleeder screw from the rear caliper.
2. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw.
3. Submerge the other end of the hose in a container filled with brake fluid.
4. Open the bleeder screw slightly.
5. Pump the brake pedal until you see a steady stream of brake fluid coming out of the hose.
6. Close the bleeder screw and remove the hose.
Rear Caliper Bleeding Sequence
Step | Wheel |
---|---|
1 | Center |
2 | Left-Front |
3 | Right-Rear |
4 | Right-Front |
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the other three calipers.
8. Top up the brake fluid reservoir.
9. Pump the brake pedal several times to build up pressure.
10. Check for any leaks. If you find any leaks, tighten the fittings or replace the faulty component.
How to Install Brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide
Installing brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide is a relatively simple process that can be completed in a few hours. However, it is important to follow the instructions carefully to ensure that the brakes are installed correctly and safely.
The following steps will guide you through the process of installing brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide:
- Gather the necessary tools and materials.
- Remove the old brakes.
- Install the new brakes.
- Bleed the brakes.
- Test the brakes.
People Also Ask
How long does it take to install brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide?
The time it takes to install brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide will vary depending on your experience level and the tools you have available. However, most people should be able to complete the job in a few hours.
What are the most common problems when installing brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide?
The most common problems when installing brakes on a 2005 Electra Glide are:
- Not bleeding the brakes properly
- Overtightening the bolts
- Installing the brakes in the wrong order
Can I install brakes on my 2005 Electra Glide myself?
Yes, you can install brakes on your 2005 Electra Glide yourself if you have the proper tools and experience. However, it is important to follow the instructions carefully to ensure that the brakes are installed correctly and safely.