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Replacing the struts on your 2013 BMW 328i FWD can be a daunting task, but it’s actually quite straightforward with the right tools and know-how. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process, from start to finish, so you can get your car back on the road in no time. We’ll cover everything from gathering the necessary tools and materials to removing the old struts and installing the new ones.
Before you begin, it’s important to gather all of the necessary tools and materials. You’ll need a set of metric wrenches, a socket set, a torque wrench, a spring compressor, and a jack and jack stands. You’ll also need a new set of struts, of course. Once you have everything you need, you can get started on the replacement process. First, you’ll need to jack up the car and secure it on jack stands. Then, you’ll need to remove the wheel and tire from the affected side. Now, before you remove the old struts, you’ll need to use a torque wrench to loosen the top nut on the strut.
Next, you’ll need to use a spring compressor to compress the coil spring on the strut. Once the spring is compressed, you can remove the top nut and washer. Then, you can remove the strut from the car. Now, it’s time to install the new struts. First, you’ll need to insert the new strut into the car. Then, you’ll need to install the top nut and washer. Now, you’ll need to use a spring compressor to compress the coil spring on the new strut. Once the spring is compressed, you can install the top nut and torque it to the specified torque. Finally, you can install the wheel and tire and lower the car to the ground.
Gathering Necessary Materials
The first step in replacing struts on a 2013 BMW 328i FWD is to gather the necessary materials. This includes:
Tools:
- 19mm socket wrench
- 22mm socket wrench
- Torx T30 socket wrench
- Torque wrench
- Strut spring compressor
Parts:
- Front struts (2)
- Strut mounts (2)
- Strut bearings (2)
- Upper spring pad (2)
- Lower spring seat (2)
- Dust boot (2)
- Strut nut (2)
In addition to the tools and parts listed above, you will also need the following materials:
Materials:
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
- Replacement bolts and nuts (optional)
Recommended Parts
While not required, the following parts are recommended for replacement when replacing struts:
Recommended Parts:
Part | Reason |
---|---|
Brake pads | Worn brake pads can reduce braking performance. |
Brake rotors | Worn brake rotors can cause vibrations and noise. |
Tie rods | Worn tie rods can cause misalignment and premature tire wear. |
Safety Precautions and Preparation
Safety First: Ensure Your Safety
Before delving into any automotive repairs, prioritize your safety by adhering to fundamental precautions. Park your vehicle on a stable, level surface and engage the parking brake to prevent unintended movement. Gather the necessary tools and don safety glasses and gloves to safeguard yourself from potential hazards.
Preparation: Gather Essential Tools and Components
To embark on the strut replacement task, you will require a comprehensive set of tools and components. Assemble wrenches (socket and open-end), torque wrench, spring compressor, strut socket, and a new set of struts specifically designed for your 2013 BMW 328i FWD. Additionally, you may need penetrating oil to loosen rusted bolts. Ensure you have a jack and jack stands to elevate and support your vehicle securely.
Removing the Tires and Wheels
To begin the struts replacement, you’ll need to remove the tires and wheels. Here’s a detailed guide on how to do it safely:
- Gather necessary tools: Collect a jack, jack stands, a lug wrench, and wheel chocks.
- Park the car on a flat, stable surface: Engage the parking brake to prevent the car from moving.
- Place wheel chocks behind the wheels opposite the ones you’ll be working on: This will provide additional stability and prevent the car from rolling.
- Use a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the wheels: Turn them counterclockwise, but don’t remove them yet.
- Position the jack near the wheel you’re replacing: Refer to your vehicle’s manual for the designated jack points.
- Slowly lift the car using the jack: Pump the jack until there’s about 6 inches of clearance between the ground and the tire.
- Place a jack stand under the car near the jack: This will provide additional support and prevent the car from falling if the jack fails.
- Lower the jack slightly to transfer the weight of the car to the jack stand: Ensure the car is stable before removing the jack.
- Remove the lug nuts: Use the lug wrench to unscrew the lug nuts completely and pull off the wheel.
Disconnecting Brake Lines and Sensors
Once the brake caliper is removed, it’s time to disconnect the brake lines and sensors. Follow these steps:
Disconnect the Brake Lines
- Locate the brake line that connects to the brake caliper.
- Use a flare nut wrench to loosen the brake line fitting.
- Once the fitting is loosened, use a wrench to hold the brake line and prevent it from twisting while you remove the fitting.
- Remove the fitting and allow any remaining brake fluid to drain into a container.
Cap the Brake Lines
After disconnecting the brake lines, it’s important to cap them to prevent brake fluid from leaking out. You can use rubber caps or plastic wrap to cap the lines.
Disconnect the Sensors
- Locate the ABS sensor and speed sensor wires.
- Unplug the connectors by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the connectors and pulling them apart.
- Use zip ties to secure the sensor wires out of the way.
Brake Line | Fitting Size |
---|---|
Front Brake Line | M10 x 1.5 |
Rear Brake Line | M12 x 1.5 |
Dismantling the Suspension Assembly
5. Removing the Ball Joint and Struts
To remove the ball joint, you’ll need a ball joint puller. Insert the puller’s jaws between the ball joint and the control arm. Slowly tighten the puller’s screw to separate the ball joint from the control arm. Once the ball joint is loose, you can remove it completely by hand.
With the ball joint removed, you can now unbolt the strut assembly. There are typically two or three bolts that secure the strut to the wheel hub and the steering knuckle. Remove these bolts and carefully lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
Once the strut assembly is removed, you can use a spring compressor to compress the coil spring. This will allow you to safely remove the strut cartridge from the strut assembly.
Here’s a table summarizing the steps for removing the ball joint and struts:
Step | Description |
---|---|
1 | Insert the puller’s jaws between the ball joint and the control arm. |
2 | Tighten the puller’s screw to separate the ball joint from the control arm. |
3 | Remove the ball joint completely by hand. |
4 | Unbolt the strut assembly from the wheel hub and steering knuckle. |
5 | Lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well. |
6 | Use a spring compressor to compress the coil spring. |
7 | Remove the strut cartridge from the strut assembly. |
Removing the Old Struts
1. Gather Tools and Safety Gear
Ensure you have the necessary tools (socket wrench, impact wrench, strut compressors) and safety gear (gloves, safety glasses).
2. Loosen Lug Nuts
Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel corresponding to the strut you’re replacing. Do not remove them completely.
3. Raise and Secure Vehicle
Lift the vehicle using a jack and secure it with jack stands. Ensure the vehicle is stable before proceeding.
4. Remove Wheel
Fully remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
5. Unbolt Strut from Suspension
Locate the strut mount bolts connecting the strut to the suspension. Use the socket wrench to unscrew these bolts.
6. Compress the Spring
Secure the strut in a coil spring compressor. Ensure the compressor is properly positioned to compress the spring safely and effectively. Slowly and gradually compress the spring, taking care to handle it with caution as it contains high levels of energy.
Warning | Safety First |
---|---|
Never attempt to compress a spring without a designated spring compressor | Always wear appropriate safety gear and handle the spring with care |
7. Remove the Top Strut Nut
Once the spring is compressed, use the impact wrench to remove the top strut nut. This releases the strut from its mount.
8. Carefully Remove the Strut
Slowly guide the strut out of its housing. Take caution not to damage the spring or other surrounding components.
Installing the New Struts
7. Preparing the Struts for Installation
a. Remove the factory plastic trim covering the top of the strut.
b. Disconnect the electrical connections to the strut mount.
c. Use a 21mm socket or wrench to remove the two bolts securing the strut to the knuckle.
d. Loosen the three bolts holding the strut mount to the strut tower, but do not remove them completely.
e. Position a floor jack under the control arm and raise the vehicle slightly to relieve pressure on the strut mount.
f. Remove the three bolts completely and separate the strut mount from the strut tower.
g. Transfer the upper strut mount and bearings from the old strut to the new one.
h. Compress the new strut using a strut compressor tool or a hydraulic press (refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper compression techniques).
i. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the strut shaft and insert it into the knuckle.
Step | Action |
---|---|
1 | Remove plastic trim |
2 | Disconnect electrical connections |
3 | Remove strut bolts |
4 | Loosen strut mount bolts |
5 | Raise vehicle and remove strut mount bolts |
6 | Transfer upper strut mount |
7 | Compress new strut |
8 | Apply anti-seize and insert strut |
Reassembling the Suspension Components
Now that the new struts are in place, it’s time to reassemble the suspension components. This process is essentially the reverse of the disassembly process, but there are a few things to keep in mind.
First, make sure that all of the components are clean and free of debris. This will help to ensure a proper fit and prevent premature wear.
Second, use a torque wrench to tighten all of the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. This will help to ensure that the suspension is properly assembled and safe to drive on.
8. Installing the Caliper Carrier
Install the caliper carrier to the steering knuckle. Use the 21 mm socket to tighten the 2 bolts to 110 Nm (81 ft-lb).
Install the brake rotor to the wheel hub. Use the 18 mm socket to tighten the 2 bolts to 140 Nm (103 ft-lb).
Install the caliper to the caliper carrier. Use the 13 mm socket to tighten the 2 bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft-lb).
Description | Torque |
---|---|
Steering knuckle to caliper carrier | 110 Nm (81 ft-lb) |
Wheel hub to brake rotor | 140 Nm (103 ft-lb) |
Caliper carrier to caliper | 24 Nm (18 ft-lb) |
Reattaching the Brake Lines and Sensors
After adding the struts and other components back into place, it is time to reattach the brake lines and sensors.
- Locate the brake lines. The brake lines are typically made of metal and run from the master cylinder to the brake calipers. They can be identified by the rubber hoses that connect them to the calipers.
- Disconnect the brake lines. Use a wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the brake lines to the calipers. Be careful not to damage the brake lines or the bolts.
- Remove the sensors. The sensors are small, round devices that are attached to the brake lines. They can be removed by hand or with a small wrench.
- Inspect the brake lines and sensors. Look for any signs of damage, such as cracks or leaks. If you find any damage, replace the brake lines or sensors.
- Clean the brake lines and sensors. Use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or debris from the brake lines and sensors.
- Apply brake grease. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the brake lines and sensors. This will help to prevent corrosion and ensure a good seal.
- Reattach the sensors. Hand-tighten the sensors onto the brake lines. Do not overtighten the sensors, as this could damage them.
- Reattach the brake lines. Tighten the bolts that secure the brake lines to the calipers. Do not overtighten the bolts, as this could damage the brake lines or the calipers.
- Bleed the brakes. Bleeding the brakes is a process of removing air from the brake lines. This must be done after any work is performed on the brake system.
To bleed the brakes, follow these steps:
- Open the bleeder valve on the caliper furthest from the master cylinder.
- Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times.
- Close the bleeder valve.
- Repeat this process for each caliper, starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the caliper closest to the master cylinder.
Tightening and Torquing Specifications
To ensure proper functionality and safety, adhere to the following tightening and torquing specifications:
Component | Tightening Torque |
---|---|
Strut to Knuckle Bolts | 47 ft-lbs |
Sway Bar End Links | 22 ft-lbs |
Strut Mount to Body Bolts | 18 ft-lbs |
Strut Top Nut | 51 ft-lbs |
Wheel Lug Nuts | 89 ft-lbs |
It is crucial to use a torque wrench to achieve these precise specifications. Tightening the nuts and bolts too loosely can compromise the strut’s performance and safety, while overtightening can damage the components.
Always refer to the vehicle’s service manual or consult a qualified mechanic for specific instructions and safety precautions related to your specific BMW model.
Ignoring these tightening and torquing specifications can lead to premature wear and tear, reduced performance, or even potential safety hazards. By following these guidelines, you can ensure that the strut replacement is done correctly and your BMW operates safely and efficiently.
How To Replace 2013 Bmw 328i Fwd Struts Replacement
Replacing the struts on a 2013 BMW 328i FWD is a relatively straightforward process that can be completed in a few hours with the right tools and knowledge. Here are the steps on how to do it:
- Gather your tools and materials. You will need a new set of struts, a socket wrench, a torque wrench, a jack, and jack stands.
- Safety first! Park your car on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels, but do not remove them completely.
- Jack up the front of the car and place jack stands under the designated jack points.
- Remove the lug nuts and take off the front wheels.
- Locate the three bolts that hold the strut in place. These bolts are located on the top of the strut, the middle, and the bottom.
- Use the socket wrench to remove the three bolts.
- Carefully lower the strut out of the wheel well.
- Install the new strut into the wheel well.
- Tighten the three bolts that hold the strut in place.
- Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the car to the ground.
- Repeat the process for the other side.
- Once both struts are replaced, torque all the bolts to the specified torque.
- Test drive the car to make sure that the struts are working properly.
People Also Ask
What are the symptoms of bad struts?
Some of the symptoms of bad struts include:
- Leaking fluid
- Noise when going over bumps
- Uneven tire wear
- Poor handling
- Nosediving when braking
- Rear-end squatting when accelerating
How often should struts be replaced?
Struts typically last for around 50,000 to 100,000 miles. However, this can vary depending on the driving conditions and the quality of the struts.
How much does it cost to replace struts?
The cost to replace struts varies depending on the make and model of the car, as well as the cost of the struts themselves. However, you can expect to pay around $500 to $1,000 for the parts and labor.